The making of the Ultimate LBD!

The making of the Ultimate LBD!

This module is all about re-creating our design that we created during the module AD203.

The Little Black Dress Project - Inspired by Butterflies


The design I decided to choose to re-create in 3D form is displayed below...

I chose this design due to the fact that it displays a lot of hard work and possible problems - something I want to learn to manage in my second year of my Fda fashion course.
I also chose this design as the bodice is a corset design - something I need to know how to create and deal with considering I want to specialise in Lingerie.


25th October 2011
Today I started pattern cutting my final design of the Little Black Dress which is inspired by butterflies.
I chose to work on a dress block and started to add the shape of the bra cup which was 2cm from the CF (Centre Front) so there wasn't a big gap when the final pieces were sewn together.

Dress Block!

Drawing in the bra cup!

Removing the darts!!

I also added 1cm around the bra cup to add more shape so its appearance was more attractive and feminine.

1cm SA

I then removed the dart from bra cup (3) so there wasn't a seam running down the middle of the top bra cup (3). I have also removed the dart from the bottom bra cup so it is more fitted and therefore adding more shape. To finish I have added 1cm SA (Seam Allowance) and how many pieces I need to cut. 

I added notches to the bra cup pattern pieces as it will allow me to sew the pieces together better. 

I started on creating the bodice panels therefore the corset. I basically did this just by drawing in how many panels that my technical drawing displayed which was 4. However one of those panels is cut on a centre fold as there is no seam down the CF (Centre Front) this panel is made out of plastic and iridescent. 

I want the bodice to be really fitted as it is a corset therefore I removed the dart. This corset is going to be made out of black leather therefore relating to the Fetish theme which I had researched during module AD203.

Adding Corset Panels

After creating these my pattern pieces I then pinned them onto calico fabric with the grain line running parallel to the selvedge edge. Using fabric chalk I traced around the pattern pieces transferring all notches and then cut them out using a pair of fabric scissors ready to sew together.

Pattern Pieces to Fabric!

Bra Cup Sewn Up!

This photograph displays the bra cup and bodice panels!

After the bra cup and bodice panels fitting perfectly together I sewed up the other half of the front corset. 

As you can see the panels fit really well together, I still need to add the CF (Centre Front) panel using the actual fabric that I will be using for my final Little Black Dress which is transparent plastic and iridescence. 

I then started to work on the shape and structure of my LBD so I started on spike (1). I did this by using the original dress block and I added the shape of the spike onto the pattern. I then cut the shape out in calico and positioned it onto the mannequin however it was too large as you can see in the photograph below..

So I have sculpted the shape so it matches my technical flat drawing shown by the pattern pieces below:

As you can see the original dress block had a dart where the spike is going therefore I have taken this dart out and swooped the shape of the spike in. I then cut this pattern piece out in calico and pinned it onto the mannequin to double check the shape and structure which I was pleased with as it matches my working drawing.

After creating spike (1) I started work on the back of my corset where i measured the height of how high I wanted the back to be which was 7 and a half inches from the waist line. I then added the amount of panels I needed to match my technical drawing which was 3. Not to forget the double notches which represent the fact that it is the back of the garment. Because the original dress block has a dart I have simply taken this dart out to once again make the bodice more fitted like a corset. 

Swooping the Dart out!

This photograph displays that I am now left with three panels which I will cut two of each to create the full back of the corset. I then cut these panels out in calico transferring all notches and matching the grain lines parallel to the selvedge edge ready to sew together. I have left the CB (Centre Back) unattached as I am going to be adding a zip there so the model can get into the garment.

After attaching the front and back corset together I decided to look for any alterations that could be made to improve my garment. I decided to swoop spike (1) into the armhole to make the garment look better and more fluent. A more technical reason of why I decide to alter this problem was the fact that it was too close to the underarm therefore would catch and be uncomfortable.

This means I will have to alter my pattern piece for spike (1), before I do this I am going to draw onto my garment to display where I want spike (1) to end shown in the photograph above.

Pattern Piece of Altered Spike (1)

Bodice with completed spikes!


Looking at the bodice the bra cups look a little flat and lack shape. I decided to alter the pattern slightly by adding more shape in the bottom two bra cups (1 & 2). 

Because I have altered the shape of the bra cup and slightly into the bodice panels (green pencil) I have to re-create this pattern so it is accurate. 

I then moved onto creating my centre panel which I'm going to create out of my actual fabrics that I would be using for my final dress which is iridescence fabric and transparent plastic overlaying.

I decided to use the actual fabrics to gain more practice in working with the fabric as they are both hard to work with.

Firstly, the iridescent fabric is really stretchy and is hard to keep still as it moves around when you cut it therefore I'm going to have to be extra careful when using this fabric.

Secondly, the transparent plastic is difficult to work with for obvious reasons as its hard to see, also when pinning the fabric you have to pin it around the edge as it leaves little holes in the plastic. Therefore when cutting out this pattern piece for my final LBD I need to pin it around the edge.
After cutting out both the fabrics I decided to edge stitch them together so they didn't slip around as much when I sewed them onto my toile.

Once I had sewed up the bodice including the centre piece, it didn't fit right, the centre piece seemed far too large there was a 2cm gap between the bra cups. It was also gathering at the top where it met in between the bra cups once it was sewn together.

Firstly, I checked my pattern and realised that after altering my pattern by changing the shape of the bra cups I hadn't altered the centre piece which was on a fold, therefore I corrected the pattern.

Over the week I am going to re-create my whole bodice again, as the whole centre piece will have to be taken out and re-cut.

I continued with my garment by adding spike (2) which is going to be made out of leather and laser cut.
I started to get an overall shape and size by folding paper in half and cutting out the general shape of spike (2) so it was symmetrical. However the first attempt of creating spike (2) ended up being too large as it was too close to the neckline, spike (2) also ended up longer than spike (1) and in my technical flat spike (1) has a larger width.

Too Large!

So I had to trim the pattern piece down to get this shape below...

Because spike (2) is going to be made out of leather I don't need a seam allowance as I want it to be structured therefore doubling the fabric will weigh the structured piece down. I need to cut spike (2) on a centre fold so I don't have a seam running down the CF as thats where my cut out design is going. After finishing college late on the Tuesday night I went home and started to re-cut out my whole toile again as the first attempt was a bit messy and the centre piece wasn't correct.

Once sewn up I was very happy with the overall fit as the centre piece fitted in nicely and matched up with the bra cups with no gathering.

14th November 2011
Starting on the bottom of the dress I had to use the dress block to cut out a skirt block in which my butterfly inspired shapes are going to attach to...

Photograph of a sample I made displaying butterfly wing inspired shape!

I need to attach these wings to something as it will give the design extra support so it doesn't just collapse.

The photograph above displays the CF and CB of the skirt, I have slightly flared the bottom of the skirt (1cm) to add some extra movement for the model who wears the garment.
Once again - grain lines, notches, and general information has been added to the pattern pieces.
I took the darts out on this skirt as I removed the darts on the top half of the garment therefore they will both fit together. I decided to cut the CF on a centre fold as i don't want a seam running down the centre of the skirt.
I have left the CB unattached as hopefully thats where the zip is going to go to get into the garment.
I have left the length of the skirt the same as the original block dress so I can alter it when I go to add the butterfly wings to see how much they droop down and I will alter the dress so you can't see it.

Simple skirt creating from dress block!

To create the inspired by butterfly wings patterns I need to create symmetrical pattern pieces of the shape.

Using the pattern pieces I had created which represent the shape of a butterflies wing, I cut them out in calico.
I then started to add boning across the shape of the wing and down the wing to support the weight and create a structured piece.

I created quite a few of the wings in three different sizes small, medium and large to add to my toile.
The small and medium wing worked really well and the boning supported the structure just how I imagined it therefore matching my working drawing.

The large wing however didn't work so well, it was too droopy and the boning couldn't support the weight of the fabric. The boning also curled the edges of the wing so I tried turning the boning the opposite way so it was against the curve, and it still curled.

As you can see in the photograph above, the larger wing looks terrible. It has no structure and just makes the whole outfit look a mess so I am going to alter the pattern so it is slightly larger than the medium wing.


15th November 2011
I fitted the bodice onto someone where I noticed the bra cups still weren't quite right, they lacked shape and were too tight. So i added shape to the bra cup by adding 1cm front he centre of the top bra cup (3) and swooped it into the original shaped bra cup.

I then decided to test out the new pattern pieces for the bra cup so I cut them out in calico and sewed them up which is displayed below.

I was quite pleased with the fact that the bra cup was more fuller now and actually had shape.
As my bodice is going to mainly be made out of stiff leather including the bra cups, I am going to test out the same pattern but in leather to check what it will look like.

The above photograph was my first attempt of sewing the leather bra cup together, sewing in a 1cm seam allowance ended up in the bra cup not sitting right as the leather fabric was too thick. Therefore I decided to test out different stitches to try and make the bra cup look neater and more presentable. 

I first practiced by stitching on a small piece of leather to get used to the fabric as well as practice the different types of stitches I could achieve. 

Double Edge Stitch

Edge Stitch

I started off by sewing in an 1cm SA then by edge stitching the along the seam allowance which didn't turn out so good. The bra cup was left with a 1cm ridge in the middle of the bra cup - the effect looked nice but wasn't what I as trying to achieve. The reason why there was a ridge in the middle is because I didn't pull the fabric tight enough therefore it gathered up when I was sewing in the edge stitch. The edge stitch is also to wide therefore I need to narrow it down on my next attempt.

Attempt 1

Attempt 2

The photograph above displays my second attempt of creating the bra cup out of leather.

I found it really difficult to get an even edge stitch - something I need to practice. Also the edge stitching on the top of bra cup (3) has created an unattractive shape to the bra cup - it looks bumpy. 

Attempt 3

Third time lucky? - nearly...

I have added a single edge stitch to the top of the bra cup as it was difficult to do a double edge stitch as it is on a curve and it damaged the leather by overworking it. The single edge stitch is slightly uneven therefore not perfect. 

The two bottom bra cups (1 & 2) have double edge stitching which I think I'm improving on for instance keeping the edge stitch straight. 

Final Garment 

Using all the skills which I acquired while making my toile I started to make my final LBD.

Below is a photograph which I took to indicate that I had to change the foot to a plastic one as a metal one would damage the leather. 

The start of the bodice...

I then started to work on spike 1 which was going to be fitted on the top of the bra cups. I wanted the piece to be really structured and to sit almost vertical on top of the bra cups. I doubled the leather over and straightened the pieces by adding this fabric called Buckram.

To create a even more structured spike - I then added boning onto the piece.

 The boning and interfacing worked really well as the piece was very structured. To finish off the edges neatly, I ironed ribbon in half and edge stitched this around the spike. I was really impressed with the overall spike as it looked really professional.

I then started to add my lining which I had already cut and prepared to the bodice. Once sewn in, it was time to add the centre panel in which consists of two fabric types e.g. iridescence and PVC.

I added a leather skirt - a stiff fabric for something in which my butterfly wings would be added.

I started to then cut out the butterfly inspired pattern pieces which I boned and added spikes too relating to the fetish trend. 

After cutting a lot of wings and adding their spikes I started to sew each piece onto the skirt. I found this quite difficult as it was really difficult to manoeuvre. 

Below is a photograph of my LBD nearly completed. 

After adding a few more wings and studs it was time to photograph my LBD:

Final LBD

SWOT Analysis
Strengths
I believe the strengths I showed within this project was the ability to design and create something out of this world which I am very proud of. 
I documented the stages throughout the making of my LBD very well reflecting on what went well. 


Threats
The fact that my LBD was ver couture and ambitious I did find it difficult in terms of how to make the garment as it was unusual. Due to my difficult design - I found managing my time very hard. 


Opportunities
Creating such an ambitious garment has benefited me as I now know the pressures of couture and will definitely create a more manageable design next time.